This week I have been living in the strange, minature world of ‘French India’. I’m not entirely clear on the history, or why the Brits let them keep it at all, but the French clung on to a tiny capsule of territory around the city of Pondicherry until 1954. Unlike the British colonial sites however, the French don’t really seem to have left. Police still wear red kepis hats, people play boules, there are boulangeries galore, street names have largely resisted the re-ethnification process thats working its way through the country. And in a way that seems particulary French to me, French tourists flock to visit ‘the French part’ of the country and compalin about how crap the crepes are (no joke - I overheard a 10 minute moan about the flour used). We clearly have very a different relationship with our ex-colonies.

There’s not a huge amount to see in Pondicherry. Inland it’s India - shops, dust and chaos - though as you get closer to the beach the roads organise themselves into a neat grid around wide streets and (grubby) whitewashed French buildings. In the centre is a Parisian park complete with mini Arc de Triomphe. There’s obviously some money in town as it’s maintained to European standards with classy uplightling on the trees and statues. What really got me though, was how European everyone was behaving. Indians sitting still, few large groups, strolling, discoursing … promenading. After a while India started to look out of place in this French world. I sat in this park, opposite a traditional Dravidian sculpture that had been lit like an exhibit as if to say “Look, they have these in India. strange aren’t they ?”. I walked through a small fair with candyfloss and a rickety old ferris wheel and into an Indian classical music recital. Really disorientating. Part of me longed to pop up the coast and visit Rob in Hossegor, as if I’d stepped through some TGV wormhole.

Pondicherry    Auld Frogspeak  

Anyway, I didn’t hang about. The real point of coming here was to visit the truly ‘out-there’ town of Auroville.

Auroville is a social experiment started in 1968 by a French woman known as ‘The Mother’ under the guidance of her partner/guru Sri Aurobindo. Putting my natural resistance towards cults and ’spiritual doctrines’ to one side, the project is inspiring. The town eventually plans to house 50 000 (at present 1700) living sustainably along lofty prinicples of their own making - an example alternative to the infectious Western model. To quote from their website (www.auroville.org): “Today Auroville is recognised as the first and only internationally endorsed (by UNESCO and Govt. of India) ongoing experiment in human unity and transformation of consciousness, also concerned with - and practically researching into - sustainable living and the future cultural, environmental, social and spiritual needs of mankind.”

So what does that mean ? Well, on one level, as a traveller it can look like an eco-friendly holiday village in the forest with a beach. A boozeless, slightly French Glastonbury. Everyone zooms from yoga class to dance workshop to organic farm to party on scooters or motorbikes along little dirt tracks through the trees. Occasionally you find yourself in the middle of a Tamil village, all cows and chickens, who are more than used to the sight of you. Contemporary European gallery spaces, offices, dance studios and concert halls with communal cafes can be visited. Classes in everything from Vedic Mathematics (I almost went for you Brian) to meditiation can be attended. A film club show arty movies by Werner Herzog and the like can be discussed in a plush cinema. Guesthouses are among residential communities with wacky names like ‘Aspiration’, ‘Halcyon’ or ‘Revelation’ each with a slightly different social structure or ideology - communal eating, self-sufficiency, music etc. I’m in ‘Celebration’ (Waaa-hoo). Travellers come here, wax lyrical, do little and end up staying for months. It’s a cosy bubble.

Auroville    Jazz Gig  

While we may not be Aurovillians, the calibre of traveller attracted seems to be high. Generally older, experienced and keen to learn something new. My main chums are 40 year old Israeli who’s family have let him off for a month, a dour, Dutch music producer who is recording a vibrating stone instrument made locally and a bunch of retired market traders from around Bath and Bristol. The last lot make me laugh. I’ve met so many people from the West Country who really surprise me. What is it about that area ? Is it really any surprise Glastonbury ended up there ? They were some of the first wave of travellers who came out to Goa by bus in the 60’s with nothing but a few pages of photocopied maps. They rented old Portuguese mansions and stayed on and off for years looking around India. Adventurous times. They can talk, unpretentiously, about gurus and ahrams they’ve lived in, yoga and spiritual revelations and still with both feet on the ground, make a living trading anything from antiques to second hand clothes at markets and festivals all over England. And retire at 50. Canny is not even the word. Romany perhaps.

Steve    Celebration Guesthouse

The real Auroville, the world of the slightly distant Aurovillans, is a big subject that no doubt takes time to pin down. It’s not a wild and crazy place but neither does it seem to be a refuge for burnt-out hippies. There’s alot of systems to master on arrival which I guess are testament to a functionally different society. I keep being drawn towards the economics of the place as a test of it’s ‘realness’. Where does all the money come from ? Is it really self-sufficient ? One of th biggest underlying concepts of the place is the concept that all property belongs to Auroville, which in turn belongs to no-one. They are also aiming to become as close to ‘cashless’ as possible. Everyone is expected to work 5 hours a day doing something meaningful for the community (of your own choice) and a large prcentage of profits from any commercial activities also go to Auroville. Each person is then looked after with ‘maintenance money’ and the vast array of services and facilities. Their aim is to de-link work from income, the idea being that if you do good work that you enjoy, it’s good for the soul and the community at large.

This is where all the spiritual side comes in. In the centre is a giant golden golfball set amongst gardens and an ampitheatre. Inside is a huge marble meditation chamber. A shaft of light is channelled through a beachball proportioned crystal in the middle. This is the ’soul’ of the city. Most people are ’spiritual’ in some way though they don’t seem to bang on about it too much. It’s all very much about YOU. ‘Inner work’ is respected by the community. I suppose Ghandi had a similar vision of the perfect society - if people can elevate themselves then the rest is really a case of logistics.

Matri Mandir    Avante-Evening  

The marriage of Sri Aurobindo and ‘The Mother’ it is said, repesents the East-West spirit of the place. It’s certainly true from what I’ve seen so far, that India (and the East) has historically always been fascinated with the idea of spiritual perfection wheras the West has been obsessed with a perfectly organised society. It does seem to be the case that we now have cities without souls and they have no town planning !

I’m not sure what I make of it. I’m glad somone is trying to prove there is a better way to live and demonstrating it is the only way. But all societies I’ve lived in where everyone ‘thinks the same way’ suffocate me after a while. Chamonix and endless snowboard chat for one. I like places that are contradictory and dysfunctional. And why does creative freedom often produce the shittest art ? Some of the avant-garde nonsense I’ve seen here would have you in stitches. Photos to come. That said … as a place to disappear for a year and work on a idea (Rob, Brian, Andy …) let me remind you of the major plus point: It’s beautiful, relaxed, cheap as chips and provided your work serves humanity, they will support you to do it. Hmmmmm ….. I’ll get back to you on that. I’m off for an organic lunch.